TAHIRA ALI: 'Fast fashion is selling Desi clothing without acknowledging our culture'

The refusal to make space for brown women and their culture in both the fashion industry and Western society has become a stifling issue that cannot be ignored, especially on social media. The 'Scandinavian scarf' fashion trend begs the question of whether South Asians can take ownership of their cultural textiles as Western brands re-market South Asian garments for fast-fashion.

Fast-fashion is at an all-time high, with Shein dominating the top spot with 600,000 products available on the site, and over 300,000 new products every year, according to MobiLoud. Among their sea of bestselling products, Shein sells a 'thin scarf' that is practically identical to the Dupatta, and 'floral skirts' that could easily double as a Lehenga, but all missing their South Asian names.

With high-street brands such as Oh Polly, H&M and Zara following suit, the moral quandary appears to be the regurgitated desi-inspired collections returning in tandem with the worst socio-political year for South Asians in over a decade.

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Whilst South Asians of the diaspora (e.g. in the UK, US and Canada) expect the usual uncomfortable nature of summer, they are refusing to turn a blind eye in 2025.

In an age where racially-motivated attacks, double-standards of immigration and harmful TikTok trends are as prevalent as ever, South Asian women are opposed to remaining silent over the irony of the mass production of Desi clothing for Western profit.

Identical replicas of the same clothing we were bullied for as children, advertised as 'bohemian' and 'Ibiza core,' has never sat right with me - a British Bengali whose grandfather migrated in the 1950’s and whose family experienced a history of racial attacks in the 60-70 years we have established in England.

From 'P**i bashing'; the acid attacks from 2012- 2018; and recent hate crimes surrounding the Southport riots, Desis of the diaspora have long suffered the racial hate of a society that has continued to colonise them for centuries, with little-to-no positive return.

So when the 'Scandinavian scarf' fashion trend went viral on TikTok, the widespread outrage of a community that had just been handed its 'cherry on top' felt more than justified, the context symbolic of more than a simple scarf around the neck.

A traditional part of Salwar Khameez (a tunic, trousers and scarf ensemble), the dupatta is a medium of modesty, a colourful veil and an accessory that adds texture and flow in the heat. The refusal to acknowledge the history of the viral scarf trend’s placement, copied from the Y2K fashion of Bollywood hit Khabi Kushi Khabi Gham, is wilfully ignorant to say the least.

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Only in Scandinavia, or Europe, is this style synonymous with chic and classy looks that would otherwise be gaudish if associated with brown women and culture. We have witnessed this since Carrie Bradshaw infamously called gold jewellery ghetto, despite its higher investment value.

Embellished and embroidered textiles have become festival costumes, yet brands deny Asian factory workers any semblance of ethical pay, leading me to ask why there is no room for acknowledgement of Desi influence in fashion in Britain. Why must products be repurposed and made acceptable for white narratives of style and taste?

Harper’s Bazaar writes that "the long history of cultural co-optation has often happened at the expense of the marginalised and to the profit of the white". The expense here is at an all-time high where WOC, like myself, were made to isolate within their homes due to a rise in Reform UK and Tony Robinson induced attacks.

Desi culture is in the yoga and Pilates you do; the clothing and jewellery you wear and claim to be high fashion; it is the traditional practice behind hair-oiling and skincare. Each of which has been repurposed to sell to a consumer base companies believe will only fall for European marketing.

In this way, the colonisation of South Asia continues, but South Asian women have decided enough is enough. H&M, Zara and OhPolly have all been asked by the Mirror to comment; unsurprisingly, H&M said: "We do not have a comment to share on this".

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